Lake Superior is not merely a lake — it is an inland sea that demands respect, humility, and a profound level of skill to navigate. To paddle its entire shoreline by kayak is a feat of endurance. To do it alone? That’s a journey into the deepest parts of one’s own psyche.
In a recent feature by Paddle and Portage, kayaker and ACA instructor Constance (Connie) Simes shared the riveting details of her 2022 solo circumnavigation of the world’s largest freshwater lake.
Note to Readers: The following story is based on an in-depth interview conducted by Paddle and Portage. They produce exceptional content covering Minnesota’s Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCA) and broader paddling communities. To support their work and gain access to exclusive subscriber-only content, please consider becoming a member here: Paddle & Portage Membership & Donations.
From Iowa to the Inland Sea
Simes’ journey to the “Big Water” was not a straight line. Originally from Indianola, Iowa, her love for paddling didn’t begin on the rugged coast of Superior, but on the calm waters of Lake Ahquabi State Park. It was here, renting kayaks day after day to escape the stress of post-college life, that she found her calling.
What started as a therapeutic escape in Iowa eventually led her north to the Apostle Islands in Wisconsin. After years of making the 16-hour round-trip drive just to be near the water—often spending New Year’s Eve alone in a cabin on the North Shore—she finally moved to Bayfield, WI. There, she honed her skills as a guide and achieved her American Canoe Association (ACA) Level 4 Coastal Kayak Instructor certification.
- Resource: Lake Ahquabi State Park
- Resource: American Canoe Association (ACA)
The “Stealth” Expedition Setup
For her circumnavigation, Simes opted for a setup that was deceptively simple. Unlike many expedition paddlers who look like they are moving house, Simes packed everything inside her kayak to maintain a low profile and better performance in wind.
She paddled a Nigel Dennis Kayak (NDK) Explorer LV (Low Volume), a British-made boat renowned for its rough-water handling and expedition pedigree. To manage physical fatigue, she rotated between two Greenland paddles and two Euro-blade paddles, switching muscle groups to keep her body fresh over the long haul.
- Resource: Sea Kayaking UK (Nigel Dennis Kayaks)
The Route: 57 Days Counter-Clockwise
Simes launched from Little Sand Bay in the Apostle Islands on June 22, 2022—the day after the summer solstice. Her strategy was to paddle counter-clockwise. This allowed her to start on the familiar South Shore (Wisconsin and Michigan’s Upper Peninsula), warming up her body and mind before crossing into the remote and rugged Canadian North Shore.
The journey spanned 57 days, with 49 days of paddling and 8 days off for weather or rest. She navigated through Sault Ste. Marie, up to Wawa and Marathon, across to Thunder Bay, and down the Minnesota coast back to Wisconsin. While she aimed for a full circumnavigation, she made the tactical decision to cut through the Keweenaw Waterway rather than round the exposed Keweenaw Peninsula, saving the latter for a future expedition to respect the lake’s unpredictable nature.
- Resource: Little Sand Bay (Apostle Islands)
The Crux: Isolation in Canada
The shift from the populated South Shore to the Canadian coast was abrupt. Simes describes crossing Whitefish Bay and landing on a shoreline of softball-sized cobbles, a stark contrast to the sandy beaches she was used to. It was here that the true solitude set in.
For nearly three weeks, Simes was entirely self-supported, carrying all her food and gear. The isolation reached its peak in Pukaskwa National Park. On Otter Island, surrounded by fog that obscured the sky but revealed the coastline, she experienced what she described as a “deafening silence.” It was a moment of pure, overwhelming emotion—a testament to the power of solitude in the wilderness.
- Resource: Pukaskwa National Park
Paddling with Chronic Illness
Perhaps the most inspiring aspect of Simes’ journey is that she undertook it while managing a chronic, invisible illness involving hypermobility. She used the trip as a way to prove to herself that she could still pursue her passion. Surprisingly, she found that her body felt better during the expedition than it did in “normal” life. The rhythm of paddling, the fresh air, and the attunement to her physical needs allowed her to thrive, sleeping better and feeling stronger than she had in years.
Humility and Humor
The trip wasn’t without its lighter moments. During a multi-day weather delay near Marathon, Ontario, Simes attempted to channel the survival show Alone by building a bushcraft chair. The result? A collapse caught on camera and a fit of “slap-happy” laughter—a reminder that even on serious expeditions, the ability to laugh at oneself is a survival skill.
Follow the Journey
Constance Simes continues to paddle and teach, proving that with preparation and intuition, big waters are accessible even to those with health challenges. You can follow her ongoing adventures on Instagram.
- Follow Constance: @authentic_imperfection
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